Ork Skin

Ork Skin

By m00
Also known in painting and modeling forums as Arctica, m00 is a very accomplished painter.  m00 started painting in 2005 and has since then spent the past several years perfecting his skills. More of m00’s work can be found on his painting blog.

 1. Start off with a base coat of gnarloc green, since this is a foundation paint it goes on really well on most things, but I still watered it down a little so it was slightly darker in the crevasses than the upper sections of the muscles. Doesn’t matter if you’re a bit messy at this stage, but let it dry thoroughly before progressing onto the really messy stage.
 

2. The next stage was to apply a splodge of brown ink to the model, this is the messiest part of the entire process for me. I love brown in and this provides my models with all the shading I need for now, I apply it over some of the other surfaces too, the ones I cannot reach later, as shading. Now you really have to let this stage dry properly too. Again I always add a little water to what I do and the same effect happens here where the upper areas of the muscles are still highlighted.

 3. Now as a slight guide you can see where the darker areas are and where the highlights will be picked out. One trick is to get a lamp and angle it where you want your light source is and take a photo of this so help you see how dark or light you want your colours. I add dark angels green with a dash of brown ink as another coat over about 85% of the skin areas, leaving the darkest areas and the edges as the dark brown ink colour.
 
4. The next step is to use pure dark angels green, remember again to water it down so it’s not too thick and apply it over about 80% of the skin areas now. Then I actually add some paint medium to the mix, not too much as you don’t want it too watery, and one paintbrush dab of goblin green. I keep adding goblin green and reducing the area coverage of where I apply paint. You can see the progression all the way up to goblin green. Note how I only apply paint to the raised surfaces trying to leave the edges nice and dark for definition.
  
 

5. The next stage is pretty fun, using a bit of skull white I add it to my goblin green and apply it very carefully on the highest edges , I like it to be quite watery so I can control the colours a bit better. Note im not always the neatest of painters, so where im not quite happy with the blends I get some dark angels green and water it down and then glaze over the blend areas to try and smooth it out, I also do it over the shaded areas slightly to give the model some of it’s rich colour back.


6. Work your way up to almost pure white, I would only use pure white on the face areas to give it a focal point, for me the face of the model is very important. Then add details, or do it once you’ve done other bits. Sometimes I add a glaze of beige to bring out a warmer colour or I substitute white completely with beige/light flesh colours.